The New York Post tries to divine the mystery of Kappo Masa’s appeal despite the universally panned food. Eventually they touch upon the alchemy of art, fashion and society that swirls around Larry Gagosian:

“If you hear the word ‘Masa,’ it means expensive, and people go to show they have juice and to demonstrate their social position,” says Richie Notar, owner of swanky Midtown restaurant Harlow.

“Larry is powerful and his friends are helping put it on the map. They don’t really care that much about food if it’s a place they think they should be seen at.”

Perhaps it’s of little surprise that the sleek restaurant has been a hit among the fashion crowd. After all, it’s elite, expensive and elegantly low-calorie.

Moda Operandi founder Lauren Santo Domingo, Everlane founder Michael Preysman, model Irina Shayk and Vogue editors Chloe Malle and Mark Guiducci have all been spotted at the subterranean hangout.

“It’s an Upper East Side restaurant that doesn’t feel like you’re going on an anniversary dinner,” says Joyce Chang, editor-in-chief of Self magazine, who visited Kappo Masa for the first time last week for a Nike dinner.

Vera Wang credits the appeal to Larry Gagosian’s “understanding of the scene” and the artistry of Takayama’s plates.

Why A-listers are flocking to NYC’s most overpriced restaurant | New York Post.